Pakeha - Column for 4/2
Tallyho!
In the shortly established tradition of me, I present another task list for yet another household project.
This latest windmill is actually a gorgeous and functional workbench that replaces the built-in, epoxy-spattered, crumbling surface that came with the house.
Enjoy.
Build Cabinet
- Buy shim stock for jointer
- Buy more poplar for test cuts on band saw
- Empty dust collector
- Inventory and organize tools and materials
- Arrange garage to cut plywood and assemble cabinet
- Clean and tune table saw (Wood #161p18, #167p30)
- Cut all cabinet parts (AC fir plywood, parts D & E)
- Assemble 3 ea. cabinet boxes on table saw
- Join cabinet boxes together, side by side
- Cut birch plywood ends (H) and attach to box
- Measure top of cabinet for top (C), cut, attach
- Measure back for back (B), cut, attach
- Measure front and sides of cabinet for face frames (leave some extra space to allow for routing flush with cabinet)
- Cut/joint/plane birch for face frames
- Assemble side frames with pocket screws
- Finish plywood on sides not covered by frames
- Glue, tack w/ brad nailer, clamp side face frames
- Route side frames flush with front of cabinet
- Assemble front face frame with pocket screws
- Glue, tack with brad nailer, clamp front face frames with a lip to register the base
- Route front face frame flush with sides of cabinet
- Plan storage in cabinet for location of pull-out shelves
- Build T-square jig for locating drawer slides
- Draw center lines for shelves and drawers
- Install drawer slides
- Finish top of cabinet
Build Top
- Install ½” blade in band saw
- Lube band saw blade with lube stick
- Tune up band saw to cut top blanks
- Cut top blanks (try to allow for vise jaws [2 ea 5½”x36”, 1 ea 5½”x18”, 1 ea 3¾”x18”, and top supports [2 ea 5”x30”, at least])
- Tune up jointer
- Cut/joint/plane top blanks as needed
- Glue short top blanks end-to-end (use pipe clamp with coupling)
- Glue top blanks into three 12” sections
- Scrape off glue squeeze-out
- Change planer blades
- Work up an in-feed/out-feed solution for planer (maybe MDF table on top of planer?)
- Plane top sections
- Joint edges of top sections as needed
- Glue top sections one joint at a time
- Scrape off glue squeeze-out
- Trim ends of table with circular saw
Install Vises
- Measure for clearance between top of cabinet and top for vises
- Confirm vise jaw dimensions using worksheet in vise instructions p7
- Consider shifting right top support to clear end vise carriage and lead screw (drill holes to accommodate lead screw and guide rods)
- Cut/joint/plane top supports (make ends interesting or pretty)
- Finish top supports
- Cut/finish/install vise handles with 1 1/8”x12” dowel and toy car wheels
- Drill bench dog holes according to pattern in Wood #166p39, use technique in Fine Woodworking #182p90
- Lay out holes with masking tape (check for clearance with vise carriages and jaws)
- Make drilling jig (Wood #166p14)
- Drill 5/8” pilot holes
- Attach ¼” Masonite auxiliary fence to plunge router
- Route holes from top with ¾” bit
- Flip top and finish holes with ½” bearing-guided bit
- Route holes in front edge with ¾” bit
- Chamfer all holes with 1/16” round-over bit
- Cut aluminum angle to length for top of cabinet and top
- Mill holes and expansion slots in angle (cut only the outside hole and slot in the top right angle to account for end vise)
- Attach angles top supports (make sure that top angles face towards the ends of the bench)
- Cut/joint/plane vise jaws (2ea 5½”x 18”, 2ea 5½”x 36”)
- Drill ¾”x1¾” bench dog holes in front jaw of end vise (top and left edge) and front jaw of front vise (top edge) to match spacing of bench dog holes in top
- Stick jaws together with double-sided tape (keep ends and bottom edge of front-vise jaws flush, and all edges of end vise flush)
- Draw centerline and carriage base line on each front jaw
- Remove p10 of vise instructions (large vise template), cut out alignment windows
- Use template to transfer guide rod and lead screw centers to jaws with awl
- Tune up drill press and auxiliary table on press
- Use 1¼” Forstner bit to drill lead screw holes through jaws
- Use 1” Forstner bit to drill guide rod holes through front jaws and just enough to mark centers on rear jaws
- Separate jaws
- Route 1/8” round-over on outside edges and ends of both front jaws
- When to route 1/8” round-over on rear jaws?
- Use 2-3/8’ Forstner bit to bore 9/16”-deep counterbores in rear jaws centered in guide rod marks for guide rod support collets
- Use 1” Forstner bit to finish drilling guide rod holes through rear jaws
- Use 11/16” Forstner bit to drill 3ea. ¼”-deep counterbores in bottom edge of front vise rear jaw
- Use 11/16” Forstner bit to drill one counterbore in left of rear jaw of end vise and 4ea 1¼” slots for expansion washers
- Use ¼” brad-point bit to drill holes centered in both rear-jaw counterbores and slots
- Clean up slots and holes with chisel
- Clamp front-vise rear jaw to bottom surface of top, flush with front end and left end of top
- Clamp end-vise rear jaw to right end of top, flush with top surface and front and rear edges
- Drill 3/16” pilot holes in top for all rear jaw mounting screws
- Attach jaws to top with ¼” lag screws and flat/expansion washers
- Lay top supports on cabinet
- Test fit top to cabinet, confirm and mark location of right support to clear end-vise carriage and lead screw
- Separate vise fronts from carriages (page 4 of vise instructions)
- Cut carriage 2ea. spacers to size and 4ea. supports to prop up front of vise from ¾” plywood
- Lay carriage spacer behind rear jaws (center the end-vise carriage)
- Slide guide roods into carriages from rear until lead screws contact back of rear jaws
- Prop up vise fronts with plywood bit
- Slide support collets onto guide rods (countersunk side facing out with flats of collets towards top surface of top)
- Center collets in counterbores
- Clamp carriages in place
- Spot holes for collets with 15/64” drill bit through collet holes
- Drill pilot holes in jaws for collets (7/32” x 1¼”)
- Attach collets to jaws with supplied #14 flathead screws
- Remove vise fronts
- Drill 21/64” shank holes through carriage spacers and pilot holes (7/32” x 1½”) in top for three rear carriage holes
- Attach carriages to top with ¼”x2½” lag screws and ¼” flat washers through rear holes
- Remove rear jaws
- Drill shank holes and pilot holes in top for two front carriage holes
- Finish attaching carriages with lag screws in front holes
- Reinsert vise fronts from rear of carriages
- Slide rear jaws on guide rods and refasten jaws
- Remove vise fronts
- Slide front jaws onto guide rods
- Insert rods into collets in rear jaws from the front
- Draw jaws together with lead screw
- Align jaws, tapping with mallet
- Drill pilot holes in front jaws for collets (7/32” x 1¼”, consider 7/16” thickness of jaw when setting drill stop)
- Attach jaws to vise fronts with supplied #14 screws
- Open end vise until guide rods don’t protrude from the back of the carriage
- Install right top support to bottom surface of top behind end-vise carriage
- Make 2ea 6-layer pads of masking tape and stick to top support behind guide rods
- Use pencil to coat end of guide rods with graphite
- Mark guide rod locations on top support by closing vise
- Cut out guide rod holes in previous template
- Mark centers of guide rod and lead screw holes
- Remove right top support
- Use 1” Forstner bit to drill guide rod holes
- Use 1¼” Forstner bit to drill lead screw hole
- Use ¾” bit to bore through bench dog holes blocked by vise
carriage spacers, if any
- Remove end-vise front w/ jaw still attached
- Remove end-vise rear jaw
Build Cabinet Base
- Cut/joint/plane
2x6s into straight 2x4s
- Cut 2x4s to length (flush with bottom of cabinet)
- Assemble base frame with screws
- Cut base top (A) to size and attach to base frame
- Attach casters to base with 5/16”x1¼” carriage bolts, torque washers, flat washers, split lock washers
- Relieve bottom of cabinet at carriage bolt heads to allow base and cabinet to mate flush
- Attach base to cabinet (flush against lip in front face frame)
- Fill in front face frame overhang with scrap lumber to provide solid base for molding
- Cut/joint/plane base molding
- Route cute profile on top of base molding
- Miter ends of molding
- Attach molding to base with glue and brad nails
Attach Top
- Install top supports to table
- Lay top on supports and align top as installed
- Mark location of top right angle on top (behind end vise)
- Mark location of additional slots in top right angle for attachment to right top support
- Mark location of holes in left top angle
- Remove and flip top
- Mill remaining slots in top right angle
- Drill 3/16”x1¼” pilot holes in bottom surface of top for lag screws
- Install right top angle with 5/16”x1” lag screws and flat washers
- Lay top on supports and align
- Attach top with 5/16”x1” lag screws and flat washers in left angle
- Attach top right angle to right support with screws
- Slide end-vise rear jaw on guide rods
- Slide guide rods into end-vise carriage
- Reinstall rear jaw
Build/Install Doors, Drawers, and Shelves
- Cut three door blanks from birch plywood
- Cut ½”x¾” birch for edging all door blanks
- Glue edging to door blanks
- Cut 3/8”x3/8” rabbet in edging (use table saw or router table?)
- Crosscut three drawer fronts from one door blank
- Cut birch plywood for shelf bottoms, drawer bottoms, drawer sides, and drawer fronts and backs
- Cut ¾” rabbet drawer fronts and backs for sides
- Assemble drawers with glue and screws
- Cut/joint/plane shelf trim birch ½” thick x 1½” wide
- Cut shelf trim birch to length
- Route 3/8” round-over on shelf sides
- Route stopped 3/8” round-over on shelf fronts and backs to match round-over on sides
- Assemble shelves with glue and screws
- Finish top, cabinet, drawers, shelves and doors
- Mount drawers and shelves
- Attach handles to drawer fronts
- Make shims to install drawer fronts
- Mount drawer fronts using shims to align
- Attach doors
- Attach handles to doors
Pakeha
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